Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a barrier on

Brittany Smith
Brittany Smith

Lena is a digital strategist passionate about emerging technologies and their impact on business growth.